Friday, 28 December 2007

What became of 2007?

This year has been one's Annus Changius Maximus!!

Having spent some time living apart, the year started with Debs and I moving back in together in a flat in Clapham. It was our first time living down in South West London and we loved it. It has a very different feel to where we have lived before (Belsize Park, Highgate and Canary Wharf) with a great selection of parks and more restaurants than you can shake a stick at!! I wished we'd found it years ago when prices might have been affordable as they are just ridiculous now!! It helped that we were in the nicest part of Clapham however as you don't have to travel far to find the grotty bits - the case with most of London!!

February saw the annual onset of general malaise - lamented by the insane, that would make me?? The standard questions regarding the direction of your career etc set in, however once the winter blues were blown away I found myself pretty happy with career etc. I was working with a good bunch of guys (bar the odd gremlin) and mostly enjoying the work I was doing.

In April the seeds were sown for where I found myself now. Having not had a decent long holiday for two years - since our last round the world trip - we had just a week in the Lake District. It was pretty obvious that a week was not enough and two weeks wasn't going to satiate the desire to see the world. It would be a long time before we would see any blooms but the seeds got a good watering over the next few months!! The decision was pretty much made by the time the week long (being generous) British summer had come to a wet and windy end in August!

More change in August as Deborah and I got engaged after over 8 years!! It was a spontaneous thing, in the rain on a boat on the Thames and thus completely unprepared. There wasn't even any sign of a ring though Deborah quickly fixed that the next week dragging me down to Hatton Gardens!

October of course led to our biggest change as we both packed in our jobs and headed off for a year travelling around the world. So far we have only seen Thailand, Laos and Vietnam but we are loving it. Not every day is good but one of the best bits of advice I got before leaving was not to expect that (thanks Sis). Good days massively outweigh the bad!! Arguments have been kept pretty low - a good sign given we still have 10 months living in each others pockets, but the odd day doing our own thing helps keep us sane. We're trying to make sure we see the real culture so avoiding the tourist trail where we can and using as much public transport as possible. However, we are tourists after all so it's not always possible.

That's it in a nutshell and on reflection, the year has been pretty darn good!!

Wednesday, 19 December 2007

A retrospective: N. Thailand, N. Laos & N. Vietnam

We've been travelling for almost eight weeks now so what have I learned about Northern Thailand, Northern Laos and Northern Vietnam...

People

Most of the people we met in Thailand were really pleasant. People are happy to help you out and it's only the infamous tuk-tuk drivers that get on your wick. It got even better when we went to Laos as pretty much without exception everybody is so nice. Even the tuk-tuk drivers are passable people! Northern Vietnam therefore came as a huge shock - it pains me to say it but generally they aren't too nice. The first three people we met tried their best to rip us off, and 90% of the remaining people we met had the same designs!!

Places

All three have similar terrains. However, they have been developed to varying degrees - Vietnam is pretty developed so there are big cities in the North needing big power supplies etc and hence some of the beauty has been lost. However, places like Halong Bay and Sapa retain their aesthetic appeal. Conversely, Laos as one of the most underdeveloped countries in the world, retains almost all it's natural beauty - particularly in the North I believe. Over 85% of Laos is unmanaged forest so you see a lot of green, interspersed with Limestone cliffs and stunning river scenes. Northern Thailand finds a happy medium between the two.

Language

All three use tonal languages which, depending on the speaker, can be nice to listen to. Thai and Laos I managed to get a small grip on and could have a small conversation, sometimes about the weather but more often than not about beer! Vietnamese has a lot more Chinese influence and I found this harder to speak and listen to - though I still made sure I could order a beer! Surprisingly, I found that not many Northern Vietnamese spoke English which wasn't really much of a problem in Thailand and Laos.

Cuisine

Thai food has been my favourite for a long time and it's only been strengthened here. Though I love places like The Pepper Tree in Clapham it can't live up to a lot of the food we had here. Laos food is bland by comparison, though they do serve most dishes with a side of spicy sauce to flavour yourself. A few Beer Laos though and it's soon forgotten. I've never had Vietnamese before but have really enjoyed the food here. The French influence in Vietnam particularly means a never ending supply of great patisseries - not a friend to my attempts to lose a pound, or two, or fourteen... . Meat is a bit hit and miss in each place but you usually get a good idea of quality by looking at the place itself and how popular it looks. Going Western is also hit and miss whilst at the same time being at the expensive end of the budget.

Culture

Family is a big thing in this part of South East Asia. Many businesses are run by just one family and may have three or four generations working together. The main religion is Buddhism and this is very evident in Thailand and Laos. Temples and monks can be seen everywhere and households of all varying affluence have offerings outside their homes. With religion not being so evident in the UK it's inspiring to see so many displaying so much faith.

Overall

I can safely say that Northern Laos has been my favorite so far. The people are wonderful - generous, well meaning, humble and always willing to help you wherever they can. You can also see remoteness that I don't expect one can see in many other places in the world but that in all likelihood will not be there for too much longer. Northern Thailand is also great, with great people, great food and scenery almost as stunning. Northern Vietnam while still being a beautiful place was my least favorite place due to the people we met. We had a bad start but it did get better and I am reliably informed that as we head south we'll notice a change in the locals. Having now spent a few days in Hue and Hoi An in Southern Vietnam I have to say that the people have been very friendly so I hope this continues as we venture further south.